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Now that summer is approaching, it's time to think of climbing in cooler elevations!

THREE OVERLOOKED CLIMBS

PARADISE FORKS, ARIZONA

By Greg Opland

OK...you jumped in your car while it was too early for the crickets to be up, risked speeding tickets trying to make the jump to light speed on the way to Flagstaff, and two of your four stereo speakers are dead because you drove the last few miles of washboard forest road like you were running 10 feet in the lead on the last two laps of the Indy 500. You pull up to the parking lot to find the place jammed with cars and trucks. After hiking down the hill, you find the Pillow Wall looking like the all-time AMC toprope outing. What to do now?

The last few years while scrounging the Forks to do some route I hadn't done before, I came across the short climbs described here. Although Fogdish isn't really in the same ballpark (quality-wise) as the other two lines, it's probably worth a shot since you'll happen to be in the area anyway. These lines aren't as long as some you'll find at the Forks, but they're fun climbing and they do present a little more "moderate" climbing than you might get in some of the other areas.

APPROACH: The Gold Wall is the south-facing wall found hanging over the Gold Pond (consult your guidebook for this location) and running to the east toward the Prow Area. This is also located just east of the Yogi Cracks if that helps. You can either scramble or rappel (recommended - maybe take an old rope just for this purpose) down ledges just west of the climbs to reach a wide vegetated shelf that overhangs the northwest corner of the Gold Pond. If you want to toprope these, there are a few cracks among the ledges at the top of the climbs that offer good pro placements.

FOGDISH (5.8)

Pro: Small to medium pro (you won't need much).

Fogdish is found on the left side of the ledge (see picture) and goes up a short right-facing dihedral. Layback up the corner to ledges above, then take easier ground up short cracks and ledges to the top. Leading this is a little tricky, although there isn't much pro to bother with. Move, place, move, done.

GRIEVOUS ANGEL (5.9) **

Pro: Medium to large (#3.5 Camalot).

A hidden classic! Just right of Fogdish, climb the slightly offset straight-in crack to the good ledge above. Although the crack is a bit wide hands in places, the climbing is nice, clean, and enjoyable. These parallel jams with few footholds demand good crack technique and a bit of endurance as the climb also tends to be slightly overhung at the top. Climbers who enjoy Pillow Talk(5.8) and want something a bit stiffer will like this one.

WATERSLIP DOWN (5.10a) **

Pro: Small to medium. (couple of larger pieces - #1 to #3 Camalot for the belay).

This is the finger crack just right of Grievous Angel and it is well worth climbing! From the ledge, reach around the corner off the right end and layback your way into this thin crack. For leaders and topropers alike, this move may be the mental crux of the line as you're really stretching off the end of the ledge with good air below. Once in the finger crack, follow it to the top. This is a really nice climb. Good locks and footholds at stances make this a good beginner 5.10 climb (in my opinion), although a somewhat serious one for the leader, who has to make a rather blind first placement before moving right into the crack. I thought the route seemed a little light for a 5.10a, but I can't swear to that.

Guidebook References:

Cheap Way to Fly by Tim Toula

Paradise Forks Rock Climbing by David Bloom

A    FOGDISH (5.8) B    GRIEVOUS ANGEL (5.9) C    WATERSLIP DOWN (5.10a)